This is written for those considering enriching their lives by adding a Bulldog to their family, owners of their first Bulldog who want to learn more about the breed, those who haven't had a puppy for a while and want to be reminded what it's like and for those Bulldoggers everywhere who will see in these experiences reflections of their own lives.
This is not intended to be the definitive statement on Bulldogs - that probably will never be written. This is intended to contain information, useful advice and practical solutions to the everyday problems run into in raising our breed and keeping them healthy. The experiences of breeders who have shared their comments and ideas should make this a helpful, informative, realistic and enjoyable introduction to the world of Bulldogs.
Bulldogs are high maintenance animals. There are no economy models. They are difficult to breed; they frequently can't deliver their own puppies; they usually need lots of help raising puppies; and they need more frequent and knowledgeable medical attention throughout their lives than many other breeds. It's cheaper to buy a beagle. That aside, they're funny, intelligent, eccentric companions who will fill your home with lots of love and laughter.
The Bulldog is an old and highly specialized breed, with unique physical characteristics developed to be used in bull baiting through hundreds of years of selective breeding. The result was a man-made dog perfectly suited for a sport that has now been banned for more than 150 years. These dogs, and the traits we find so appealing, exist because breeders decided to save the breed at that time, rather than let it die out. They took the aggressive bull fighter and bred it into the friendly Bulldog that we find today.
People made the Bulldog what it is and the dogs need people to ensure their continued survival. However, in looking at the standard for the ideal Bulldog many characteristics are those needed for success in the bull ring. The deep stop, wide nostrils, undershot jaw, and low slung body were all desirable for approaching the bull, holding onto it and helping breathe while blood is flowing from the bull. Similarly, the general appearance and attitude suggesting great stability, vigor and strength were desirable in a fighter. Some characteristics, like kindness and courage without viciousness or aggressiveness reflect the changes caused by breeding dogs after bull baiting stopped.
Each breed has structural peculiarities that predispose it to develop different strengths and weaknesses form other breeds. Bulldogs' structural differences from other breeds may lead to more frequent visits to the vet for a number of problems. These and other health issues in dogs are discussed in the section on Health and Medical Care.
Bulldogs are among the brachycephalic breeds - those whose heads are comparatively short and wide, with noses that do not extend far in front of the face. These breeds, and Bulldogs in particular, have a higher incidence of problems breathing.
These traits are congenital; they may be inherited or may crop up in a line of dogs with no known carriers. Although the problems involve breathing, it consists of at least four separate traits that are independent. Each trait exists on a continuum, resulting in a wide range of possible combinations. The four areas that combine to affect breathing are the soft palate, the tracheae (windpipe), the adenoids and tonsils, and the nostrils and nasal passages.
Similarly, Bulldogs have shallow hip sockets, leading to some slight degree of hip dysplasia in most dogs - this contributes to the characteristic "roll" required in the standard. It is not usually a problem for them, nor does it usually require surgical correction, but it will show up in x-rays in a way that would be abnormal for other breeds and may confuse a veterinarian who is not familiar with the characteristics of the breed..
Other breed characteristics may result in the possibility of some dogs developing "Cherry Eye," extra eyelashes, entropion, ectropion, cruciate ligament weakness or tearing, hot spots, interdigital cysts, impacted anal sacs, osteochondritis, or panosteitis. While no dog is likely to exhibit all or most of these faults, they do crop up with varying degrees of frequency in some lines.
All of this makes it important that you not only have a veterinarian who is knowledgeable, but who is knowledgeable and has experience with Bulldogs. Your veterinarian's understanding of the breed and their unique characteristics will make the successful treatment of your dog more likely and reduce the dangers should he or she need to undergo anesthesia for surgery at some point.
There are both local and national Bulldog clubs that have meetings and shows where you can ask questions and learn more about the breed.
The major clubs in the Northeast (Bulldog Club of America [BCA] Division I) are the Bulldog Club (BC) of Philadelphia, the Lower Susquehanna BC, the BC of New Jersey, the Long Island BC, the BC of Connecticut, the BC of New England, the BC of Maine and the BC of Pittsburgh. Each club meets monthly, publishes a newsletter, and has at least one specialty (just Bulldogs) point show and two specialty match shows (informal competition, primarily for puppies) each year.
The Bulldog Club of America (BCA), the parent club for the breed in the United States and in the American Kennel Club (AKC), has a quarterly publication, The Bulldogger, which contains useful and informative articles and is free to members. Membership in BCA or local specialty clubs is inexpensive. It's a great way to learn about the breed and meet people with a common interest in the breed.
If you want to know more about the breed, several other good books on the history and breeding of Bulldogs are available. They include The Book of the Bulldog by Joan McDonald Brearley (T.F.H. Publications, Inc., 1985) and The New Complete Bulldog by Col. Bailey C. Hanes (Howell Book House, 1973.). An excellent book on Bulldogs and breeding kennels in England is The 20th Century Bulldog by Marjorie Barnard [Life president of the Bulldog Club, Inc.] (Nimrod Press Ltd, 1988). Incidentally, Howell Book House also publishes excellent books on a range of dog topics: nutrition, breeding, genetics, etc.
Adults can make wonderful pets. They usually are housebroken and socialized, although you may have to retrain them to the specific rules of your house. Adults are available from rescue groups, shelters, and individual breeders.
Breeders may want to place an older puppy or an adult that they were evaluating for show who didn't quite make it as a show dog. Some breeders place their bitches at age four or five when they will not breed them any further. This can be a good source for a dog that will fit into your family easily. Some people think that the dogs will miss their lives with their former owners. Our experience is that dogs love their new homes. Breeders usually try to match the personality of the dog with the family situation it moves into. The dog will frequently get more attention in its new home and will quickly adjust to its new environment. It is unusual to have a dog go to a new home where the breeder, the dog and the new owners weren't happy with the situation.
Rescue groups started as a response to irresponsible ownership on the part of some people. Some owners would tire of a dog and abandon it or would give up a dog because it became an inconvenience. Each breed developed groups which specialized in placing dogs of that breed in good homes. These dogs can range from easy adoptions to those which, for a variety of reasons, are harder to place. Dogs which have been subject to animal abuse or have been poorly socialized as pups are always harder to work with and, therefore, harder to find suitable homes. On the other hand, some dogs are placed because their owners are too old to take care of them adequately. Either type can make a great pet for the right home. The Bulldog Club of America has a Rescue Network, with each group handling a specific part of the country. More information can be found on the BCA Web Site under Rescue
So you have decided to own a Bulldog and are wondering what you're supposed to do next. Several things are important before you can take your dog home with you. First, you have to choose your dog. Second, prepare yourself for the trip home. Third, make sure your dog has a safe new home. Finally, reassure yourself you dog is healthy and you know what to do to make sure he stays healthy.
Bulldogs cost more to buy than many other breeds. The cost is higher because they cost more to take care of throughout their lives, the costs of breeding are higher, it is harder to raise a litter, and the litters are generally smaller than in other breeds.
About 1/3 of the Bulldog puppies born die between birth and weaning. Some puppies never come home from the Vet because of birth defects; others die in the first few days because they do not have the strength to survive. By the time you have weaned the puppies, you can be reasonably sure that the puppy will not have major, undetectable health problems that are imminently life threatening.
First Steps
All Bulldog puppies are adorable. You need to make sure that you find the right one for your household. The first consideration is why you chose a Bulldog. All make wonderful pets, but some can become show dogs as well.
If you want a pet to liven up your household and bring love to everyone, a Bulldog is a good choice. According to the Standard for the Breed, a properly bred Bulldog will have an equable and kind disposition, be resolute and courageous (not vicious or aggressive) and exhibit a pacific and dignified demeanor, all of which the expression and behavior reinforce.
In choosing a pet, your most important considerations are the health of the puppy and its attitude. Generally, breeders will offer puppies for sale between eight and twelve weeks of age. Much before eight weeks, it is too early to separate the puppy from its mother; by 12 weeks, the breeders have good guesses about which puppies may be showable (although they may hold onto a potential show prospect for up to a year to see if it turns out). Sometimes older dogs held onto for their show potential are available as older puppies. Depending on your situation, considering them may be advantageous since you can better see how they will look and they will probably be housebroken already.
Others sell puppies between 12 and 16 weeks, after it has had its full course of puppy shots. This reduces the chance it will pick up some illness soon after it leaves the breeder.
The decision on whether a dog is a potential show puppy is based the breeder's judgment of the degree to which the puppy will match the Bulldog Standard as it matures and the breeder's knowledge about the maturation of the lines he or she breeds. Changes to the puppy occur throughout maturation and affect the degree to which he meets the Bulldog Standard in any one area.
The breeder's decision that a puppy does not have show potential only means that the breeder believes the puppy will not closely match the Bulldog Standard when it matures. It does not mean the puppy is unhealthy or otherwise unsuited to bringing you many years of friendship and happiness. Although it may mean a great deal to a breeder whether ears are too large or the top line is perfect, it will probably not make much difference to you or your puppy.
Since no one's judgment is perfect, a dog that the breeder thinks is a show prospect may not turn out to be one when it matures. Similarly, every breeder has a story about the pet he or she sold that they would die to get back because the puppy turned out to match the Bulldog Standard better than other dogs that breeder kept.
When you look at any potential puppy for purchase, you should make sure that the dog has clear, bright eyes and a cool, moist nose. The coat should be bright and shiny. All these are signs of good health.
The dog should smell sweetly. Of course, if other puppies are present, there will be a smell of feces in the area where they are kept. However, unless the puppy has just stepped out of its food dish (which is very possible at the ages you will be looking at), a clean coat not only reflects health, but the quality of care the puppy has been given.
Above all you want a dog who acts healthy. A dog who is listless may have worms or an infection. A dog who is active and playful, with a good disposition, is what you want . Of course, puppies still sleep a lot. Just because a puppy is sleepy doesn't mean it's not healthy, but you do want to see it awake and alert.
It is not unusual for a puppy to struggle when picked up. Most young puppies will still playfully nip or chew on anything they can reach. However, if the puppy tries to bite you aggressively, it may not be a good prospect for a family pet. A too shy puppy, one who shrinks away from you or hides after time to get acquainted with you, may be hard to socialize into family life. Either may be fine, but be aware of the potential difficulties.
In choosing a dog as a pet that you would like to show, you need to take additional steps. First, read the Standard for Excellence of type of Breed and understand what the ideal Bulldog is supposed to look like. Each breed has its own Standard against which dogs are judged.
Breeders try to improve their breeding to get dogs as close to the Bulldog Standard as possible. As you can see from looking at it, each part of the dog's anatomy and appearance is weighted in importance. About 40 percent of the score is based on the conformation of the head, about 40 percent on the rest of the dog's structure and about 20 percent on general properties of the dog. As you read the Bulldog Standard, you will realize how difficult judging the show potential of a puppy can be: weighing each of the written descriptions against a point scale for each imperfect dog present.
The only disqualification for a Bulldog in the Standard is a Dudley (Brown or Liver-colored) nose. You will almost never see this since it has been pretty well bred out of the Bulldogs over the years. Don't confuse this with the lack of pigmentation in puppy noses. It can take some time for pigmentation to develop fully in puppies and some pink on the nose can be expected in young puppies. However, all other things being equal, the younger it's pigmented, the better.
Second, take this knowledge to dog shows in your area to look at the dogs in the ring and see how they compare to the Bulldog Standard. Specialties or Supported Entries, where entries are large, are especially good for this. There you can get a feel for what show dogs look like at different ages and can talk to breeders about their dogs. Most of us are very approachable, especially if you want to know about our dogs and are interested in owning a show puppy.
You should learn at least a little about the breeding lines in the area and what characteristics are predominant in each. Since no Bulldog matches the Standard, you will find that different breeders produce slightly different looks in their dogs. They each approach the Bulldog Standard, but in different ways. You may find one type more appealing to you than another. Finally, you should learn to read a pedigree, understanding the use of line breeding and out-crosses.
Don't assume a dog in the pedigree that is not a Champion is not a quality dog. Breeders have miscounted points and thought a dog was finished when it wasn't; a dog imported into the U.S. may be too old to become a Champion here; English Championships are harder to obtain for lines that go back to English forbearers; an otherwise sound dog may become injured, preventing his finishing his Championship or a beautiful specimen may be in a pet home and never get shown. These are some of the reasons you must get to know your potential show dog's pedigree.
When choosing a dog or bitch, you should also find out which dogs and bitches in the pedigree are "top producers," that is, those dogs which have sired at least 10 champions and bitches which have produced at least four champions. It would also be good to know if any have won the Beckett Award (the dog and bitch producing the most Champions in a five-year period). Few dogs win these awards and the more the pedigree contains, the more likely (other things being equal) that your dog will be a good stud or brood bitch.
Once you have zeroed in on a line or lines you are interested in, contact the breeders. Most breeders keep lists of people interested in their future breedings and will contact you when they have a puppy available.
You also need to think about whether you want a dog or a bitch. While most breeders sell dogs outright, many will only sell a bitch on "breeders’ terms," meaning a cash price plus the choice of the stud and the return of one or more puppies from the first litter bred. Some breeders have variable cash prices for bitches depending on the number of puppies they get back.
Probably the characteristic new buyers most focus on is the color of the dog. As you read the Bulldog Standard, you will see that this is not a significant factor judging a dog. You should be careful not to let your preference for a particular color lead you to reject a dog which is superior in all other ways.
As you look for a 2-4 month old show prospect, you should look for some specific traits. Of course, you won't find them all in any one dog, but the better the dog is in these areas, the more likely he or she can be a Champion. Besides the factors considered in choosing a pet, you should see:
the start of a good layback (not too nosey)
good width of jaw
a turn-up of jaw and a slightly undershot jaw (depending on the age, the jaw may be slightly overshot, but not too much, since the jaw will continue to come forward as the puppy matures)
dark eyes set far apart
a short nose and wide nostrils
small, thin, well-set ears
a short, cobby body (a short dog can get long, but a long one won't shorten)
good bone compared with size (bone generally will not get heavier, but can get lighter)
good width between the front legs and not leggy (not too much space under the chest and brisket when looking from the front)
a low tail set (the carriage may change, but not the set), with the end not going below the hock
good rear legs (not bowed or too cowhocked)
In addition, a dog's testicles should be descended so they can both be felt upon examination. While some in and out slippage may be apparent in some lines until a later age, especially when under stress, you should be able to find both of them. Since, under AKC rules, you can't show (and should not breed) a dog who does not have both testicles, be sure they are there before purchasing a show prospect.
Please don't be discouraged if you don't get the pick of the litter. No one except the owner of the bitch usually does. The first puppy or two go to the owner (and the breeder of the bitch if it's the first litter on breeders’ terms). Second or third is about the best you can do if you are not involved in the breeding of the litter, even if you are already an otherwise experienced breeder. Of course, third can be exceptional. One local breeder's foundation bitch was third pick in her litter and she produced three champions in her first litter. You can see her traits carried down through the generations in their dogs. Similarly, the breeder did not keep their first stud, but he has sired many exceptional Champions and he is in the Bulldog Hall of Fame as a Top producer as a result.
Finally, consider a slightly older dog. If you really want to show, you will have a better idea of the dog's conformation. While you can luck into a really good puppy, you can't be absolutely sure of the ultimate quality of a young puppy. With one that is six months to a year old, you can be fairly certain of the show quality of your purchase. These are generally puppies the breeder held onto because they couldn't find a show home or because they wanted more time to evaluate their show potential. Sometimes, a breeder has a younger puppy which they think is exceptional and decide to place an older dog with show potential they had been holding on to. If you develop a good relationship with your breeder, you can learn why the puppy is available as an older puppy and decide if it is suitable for you.
If you are looking for a pet, consider adopting an older dog or getting a rescue dog. An older dog may become available for many reasons. The owner may be moving and may not be able to take the dog along, the family's life style may have changed (a new baby, for example) and they can no longer spend the time with the dog that it needs, or the dog may have a problem (either health or temperament) that the family can't cope with. Many of these older dogs make wonderful pets for the appropriate owners. Find out why the dog is available and get to know it and see how it interacts with you. If it is a good match, both you and the dog may have lucked out.
Bulldogs tend to mature slowly. A truly fine specimen may not finish maturing until three years of age; frequently a dog will be almost two before he is ready to win in the show ring. That doesn't mean that earlier maturation never occurs, but the full majesty of the dog usually unfolds later.
A puppy is born usually weighing between 10 ounces and a pound. Its nose is pink and its eyes and ears are closed. Its eyes open around 10 days to two weeks and between two and three weeks its ears open. Before that, it can't hear at all.
At about three weeks, the puppies are beginning to walk; there may be some back sliding as the puppies gain weight and their muscles are unable to support the new load. By about six or seven weeks, all the puppies should be scurrying around on their own.
All puppies this age are adorable. If you're looking for a show puppy, you can expect changes over time. Unfortunately, the exact changes cannot be predicted perfectly. Most puppies will go through a gangly stage from 4-8 months; their parts seem to grow independently of each other. They usually mature out of this stage.
This stage is not very different from adolescence in humans. However, if you're hoping to show the dog, it can be a disheartening time. Don't worry too much. Your breeder can tell you how his or her lines develop and generally what to expect.
Pigmentation As your puppy matures, the pigmentation around his eyes and on his nose will fill in. This sometimes takes until the dog is a year old to complete itself, depending on its genetic make-up.
Don't worry if a dark line has not entirely surrounded the eye or if there is pink on the puppy's nose when you get him. This usually fills in with maturation and you have to give it the time nature requires. However, ask the breeder whether this is an issue in the lines.
Teething Your puppy will start losing his puppy teeth and getting his permanent teeth at about three and one-half to four months of age and continue for about two months. Some lines are on the early side, some develop later. Ours tend to be early. The first teeth are generally the smaller teeth in front - probably the middle teeth in the lower jaw first. The adult teeth are broader and whiter than the baby teeth.
Check to see that he's lost the baby teeth as the adult teeth are coming in. You or the Vet should push out any baby teeth that remain when its adult replacement breaks through - otherwise his teeth will be crooked and he may have problems eating. It's just like with children's teeth and the dogs don't seem to mind it. They especially appreciate hard rubber toys now - and so will your furniture. The toys may help him loosen teeth on his own.
Puppies' reactions to teething vary widely. Some dogs show almost no signs that they're teething, other than an urge to chew almost anything. Other dogs are obviously in pain - their eyes may tear, ears drop, and they may lose their appetites.
If your puppy is one of the latter, ½ an Ascriptin, 3-4 times a day, may help over the worst spots. Also, a water-soaked, frozen rolled-up washcloth to chew on may reduce the swelling and pain. Offer food he especially likes and cuddle him a lot. It's only temporary, but it does hurt.
Permanent teeth don't set firmly in the jaw until up to 10 months of age - so chewing may go on for a while. The puppy's lower jaw will start to lengthen and turn up as he teethes, giving him the distinctive undershot jaw that Bulldogs are known for. His head will broaden later as he matures.
Shape of Skull and Body As your dog matures, major changes will occur in the shape of his head. As discussed, about 40 percent of the points in the Bulldog Standard are based on the head. A mature Bulldog should have a large head, with a deep skull, and a straight layback. It will be broad between the yes, with a well-developed stop, and a sweeping upturned jaw. It takes a while for all of this to come together. In some lines, you may not see the changes until the dog is more than two years old.
Similar changes take place in the structure of the dog's body. His chest will broaden and become deeper and he will put on muscle mass. By the time your puppy is about 10 months old, he will have achieved his adult weight, probably about four times the weight he was when you got him.
Sexual Characteristics Males tend to be larger and more muscular than bitches. The Bulldog Standard notes this and specifies that we should give allowance to the bitch in comparing them with dogs since they "do not bear the characteristics of the breed to the same degree of perfection and grandeur as do the dogs."
The testicles can usually be felt between six and 10 weeks old, but they may not be easy to find. When the dog is young, they may descend and recede. If they can be felt at one time, but not another, there is no need to worry. In some dogs, they may not descend until six months of age. Consult your Vet if you think there is a problem. Dogs with one testicle cannot be shown. They can reproduce, but should not be bred since the condition is hereditary.
Your male will squat to urinate at first. He will not lift his leg until he is fully mature. This can vary from six months old to about a year old. Watching him learn can be funny - it may take a while for him to realize that he can lift either leg to go.
Your bitch will probably come into season for the first time between six months and a year. She will then come in about every 6-10 months. Once you determine her cycle, she should follow it fairly regularly.
Ears When puppies are born, their ears stick straight up and they cannot hear. As they mature, their ears fall into a more normal position. Some have perfectly shaped ears, but they may need some help to develop the ideal shape. Your dog's ears should be set to conform to the Bulldog Standard - Rose Ears - when you get him from your breeder. Your breeder should show you how to set them in place properly in case they need regluing.
To ensure that his ears remain the proper shape, you should set them regularly. Place a small amount of adhesive in the external creases of the ear and hold the ear in place for a few minutes while it sets. Then put adhesive on the tip of the ear and place it where it will naturally fall.
When your puppy begins to teethe, he may temporarily lose control over his ears. They will drop because of his reaction to the pain. If you keep his ears glued while he's teething, when the teething ends and the pain subsides, he will have perfect ears again. Of course, some dogs never have this problem -- their ears rose on their own and stay rosed all through teething.
Your new puppy is probably between nine and 16 weeks old. Much before eight weeks, the puppy is not ready to be separated from his mother. By 15 weeks, the breeder has made their guesses about the show potential of the puppies and knows what type of home they should be destined for.
Your puppy is used to a warm and comforting environment. Your first contact not only will make him feel more secure, but will make your smell and touch something your new dog wants.
You should bring an old blanket or other large, soft cloth with you to hold the puppy. Generally, after a period of excitedly looking around, the puppy will calm down and fall asleep -- something they spend much time doing.
The first thing you must do before bringing your puppy home is to make the place safe for and from him. Puppies are wonderful, but unsupervised in a normal home, they can wreck havoc way out of proportion to their size. To ensure minimal damage to your home and maximum safety for your puppy, a few changes will be needed. This is very similar to making a house safe for a crawling infant - which, after all, it what your puppy is.
Dogs like an area that's their own. Most breeders have found that a dog crate is ideal for giving the puppy a sense of security in his new surroundings and a place to retreat when tired. An open crate in a dog-proof room is a good place to keep the dog when you are out of the house for a few hours and can't supervise him - he'll get used to having the crate ready for a snooze and won't object to being in it when the door is closed. Don't feel that your dog won't like to be crated - he'll feel its home to him and be more secure there than roaming around.
When You leave for work, just tell your dog to get in the crate and then calmly walk away from wherever they are to where the crate is. Of course, you should make this pleasant for them by rewarding them (with praise or a tidbit) when they do this and by making sure toys and water were in the crate to take care of their needs. Never use being put in the crate as a punishment, although if the dog needs to be settled-down, you can use it as a pleasant (for you and the dog) "time out" space.
If you don't plan to get graduated size crates for your puppy, a crate about 24" wide by 36" long by 24" high should be big enough for a large, mature Bulldog. You want a space that is big enough for him to stretch out, but small enough to make your puppy secure. Buy several rubber backed bathroom mats to use as crate mats. They can be either used alone or topped with an old blanket if you want additional padding. The blankets alone will not provide good footing - they have a tendency to slide in the crates. The mats can be washed frequently to reduce doggy odors and to ensure a flea free environment.
For the first few days, the crate should be in your bedroom to give the puppy company at night and increase his sense of security. Depending on his age, you can place a clock in his crate to suggest the sound of his mother's heartbeat (just remember to turn the alarm off) or can put a warm (not too hot) water bottle or plastic jug under the mats at one end of the crate to create the sense of warmth from other bodies. Some use puppy crates that can open from the top and put them next to the bed. That way you can leave your hand draped inside or reach in to quiet the dog. It soothes them and does not lead to dependence if you don't continue the practice more than a few days.
After that, you can decide where you want him to sleep. Make sure his crate is in a room that can be closed off until he's very reliable. If there is too much commotion in the room with the crate, you can cover the top and sides with a cloth, provided there is enough air circulation and the dog won't overheat in the crate. If it gets warm, be sure that the air-conditioning is on or a fan it circulating the air.
Water should always be available for the dog, either in the crate whenever he is confined or in the room. When it's warm, place ice cubes in his water. It keeps the water supply cool on hot days and lets him chew the ice cubes to cool off, if he wants to. They make special bowls for water in crates. Large, heavy, flat bottomed bowls are best outside the crate - they are less likely to spill and will be easy for your dog to drink from comfortably. Toys also should be available always - they like variety and need to chew.
Food and water should always be placed in the same spot in the room where you feed him. It's less confusing for him and he can establish good eating patterns. Imagine how hard it would be for you if someone kept changing where the dinner table was.
Your puppy may not be as interested in food as he is normally during his first day or two with you. He's nervous and excited - that's a normal reaction to a major change in his life and surroundings. Be patient with him and try priming his eating by giving him small tidbits of chicken or meat (really small is fine - you want to prime him, not have him teach you to hand feed him). Mix some tidbits into his food and then put two tablespoons on the top near the edge of the bowl. Hand feed him a piece he can see you take from the pile in the bowl and feed him over the pile in the bowl so he makes the connection immediately. Getting him to start this way should be easy and he should be eating normally in a day or two. Try not to do distracting things while he's eating during this period. In a short while, you can go about your business when he's eating and he won't even notice.
As a Bulldog owner, you will probably see much of your vet, so choosing a good one is crucial. Bulldogs require all the care that any other breed does. In addition, the unusual physical characteristics that make them so appealing may create their own problems. This is a highly specialized, man-made breed which would have difficulty surviving on its own in the wild.
You probably won't experience in one dog all the problems we discuss, but you can count on seeing all of them at some point if you continue with additional Bulldogs. Each dog owned feels it is his or her duty to teach you about another Bulldog problem. As you learn more, you can recognize the problems and feel more confident in your ability to handle many of them yourself and to decide when a Vet needs to be called in.
Your Vet must be experienced in handling Bulldogs - the more, the better. It's worth traveling farther to see a Vet that sees many Bulldogs - they can diagnose and handle their special problems better than a Vet who is less familiar with the breed.
This is important for everyday care and may mean the difference between life and death if the dog has a major problem. For example, Bulldogs have more difficulty with anesthesia than other breeds because of their unique breathing configuration. A more experienced Vet will know when not to use anesthesia and how much to use when it's needed. there are several outstanding vets in the area and the club can help you in finding a Vet used by Bulldoggers in your area. You can also consult the recommendations of follow bulldoggers for local vets or vets when you are traveling by consulting the Veterinary Database.
In choosing among Vets, try to find the best diagnostician; someone able and willing to explain what he sees, its implications and treatment options. You will need this to participate intelligently in the treatment of your dog.
You should take the puppy to a Vet for an examination within the first few days you have him, preferably on the day you bring him home. The earlier the better, since you will want to be assured he is in good health and have your Vet tell you anything specific you should be doing. You should bring a stool sample with you, so your Vet can test for worms.
They will give your puppy a series of vaccinations against common communicable diseases. They sometimes give the first shots as early as 5-6 weeks of age, although they frequently do not give them before 8-9 weeks of age. Many breeders (and Vets) differ on what is the appropriate timing for the shots.
If they give shots at around 8-9 weeks, the shots are usually given in a series of three, spaced a month apart and provide combined protection against distemper, infectious hepatitis, kennel cough, Parainfluenza, parvovirus, and sometimes leptospirosis. A series of shots is required, since the maternal antibodies, which are transmitted thought the mother's milk and protect the puppy from birth, may interfere with getting immunity from the shots. The multiple shots ensure that the vaccination will take effect shortly after the maternal antibodies lose their strength. At four months, your puppy will need vaccination against rabies.
By the time you get your dog, he will have been inoculated against some or all of the diseases discussed. Shots should be renewed on a set schedule to ensure continued immunity. Your breeder will let you know what shots your dogs got and when he got them. Your Vet will tell you when the next shots are due and which ones to get.
Be sure to follow-up with your Vet to make sure inoculations are kept current. If you take those simple precautions, your dog will probably never have any of the diseases against which they vaccinate him.
If your dog will be coming in contact with many other dogs (either in shows or in a kennel) they recommend the widest range of inoculations.
Rabies Rabies is a fatal disease of warm-blooded animals and is a growing problem in the United States today, especially in the Northeast. Any wild animal that appears friendly, lets you approach it, or froths at the mouth should be avoided as suspect.
State laws require vaccination against it, but differ on the frequency of the vaccination. In New Jersey, vaccinations boosters must be given every year. in New York, a three-year vaccine is permitted. The live virus provides longer-lasting protection.
Distemper Distemper is highly contagious and potentially deadly. Within a few weeks, signs of central nervous system involvement occur. They give shots in combination or shortly after weaning in combination with a measles vaccine. Annual booster shots are required to maintain immunity.
Infectious Hepatitis Canine Infectious Hepatitis is a very contagious disease which is transmitted only among dogs through contact with urine, stool or saliva. Young puppies experience the more severe cases. They will give either Adenovirus Type 1 or Adenovirus Type 2 to protect against Hepatitis and the Adenovirus associated with the Kennel Cough complex. Annual booster shots are required to maintain immunity.
Kennel Cough Kennel cough is a highly contagious respiratory infection, exhibiting itself in harsh, dry, spastic coughing. It is especially serious in a Bulldog puppy, where small windpipes can be closed off by mucus secretions.
Several organisms cause Kennel cough. A vaccine against Parainfluenza protects against one of these, just as the Adenovirus vaccine protects against another. Bordetella vaccine protects against another kind. Show dogs should have this additional protection. You can give puppies Intra-Trak nasally at three and four months and follow-up every six months for active show dogs and annually for others.
Leptospirosis This disease is spread in the urine of infected animals, with rats serving as a main repository of the infection. Major symptoms involve pain in the kidneys, a thick, brown coating on the tongue, bloody stool, severe thirst and increased urination, and jaundice. Booster shots are required to maintain immunity.
A number of dogs have shown allergies to the Lepto vaccine in recent years. The reaction can be severe and life threatening. For a time Lepto was not a significant problem in most parts of the country; it is making a comeback. You may want to discuss with your Vet the advisability of Lepto vaccine for your dogs. If you use it, you should monitor your dog closely for at least several hours after the vaccine is given, especially after the second shot when antibodies created by the first shot may be reactive.
Parvovirus and Coronavirus Parvovirus, which is highly contagious and deadly, is transmitted in feces. The incubation period can be as short as three days. It has its most severe effects among puppies, although it affects all ages. It appears in two forms. The first has symptoms of loss of appetite, vomiting and severe abdominal pain, followed by high fever and diarrhea.
The second manifests itself in puppies less than three months old, who stop nursing and gasp for breath. Death can occur quickly or after a few days.
Both types require quickly consulting your Vet for medical attention. Delays can result in severe dehydration and death. They will hospitalize your dog in all but mild cases. Parvovirus protection should be provided as part of the combination shot. Booster shots are required to maintain immunity. Coronavirus is similar to, but milder than, Parvo. You will need to consult your Vet for treatment. They strongly recommend inoculation for dogs who are shown. Annual booster shots are required to maintain immunity.
The Puppy Room
You should set aside an area where the puppy can be left alone without damage to himself or your home. If you can't do this, then you should consider an older dog. You should be able to close off the room with a puppy gate or door. Dutch doors are very effective - you can look in, air can circulate, but the puppy is contained.
For most people, the ideal puppy-proof room is the kitchen or spare room. Ideally, the room should have linoleum or tile floor (accidents will happen and the easier to clean up, the better). However, the floor should not be slippery. A slippery floor could cause your dog to injure himself.
Puppies chew anything that catches their attention. All electrical outlets, cords and plugs should be out of reach. Child proof plugs can be inserted into unused outlets. All floor level outlets should be blocked by something. Any furniture in the room should be considered expendable - it will be usable after the puppy is grown, but its edges may be battered. It's clearly not a place for your favorite antiques, heirlooms, or breakable china.
Bitter Apple is a fairly effective short term deterrent to chewing. It tastes awful (although we have had dogs who liked the taste), but it wears off quickly. The liquid kind can temporarily change the color of wooden furniture; there is a cream for that purpose. However, the best way to avoid damage to furniture is to keep the furniture and the puppy apart unless you are there to supervise and correct misbehavior.
Anything the puppy can carry and chew should be removed from the puppy's reach - books, magazines, and shoes seem especially tasty. The contents of open or openable (even if that means chewing through a box) household supplies, laundry hampers, or garbage pails can provide endless hours of entertainment for your puppy - or can poison or kill him. Remember, it's just like guarding your home from a curious, inquisitive and impish child.
Assume that the puppy will find a way
to pull down or topple anything he is interested in. Blankets, towels, long
tablecloths (and anything that was on them) will wind up on the floor. They will
chew pillows and scatter foam or feathers everywhere. This stage is usually
temporary (some dogs seem to get stuck here), but every dog does go through it
for some period before maturation and training have their effect.
The Rest of the House
Your puppy should not roam free unless you're there to supervise. While you don't have to go to extremes to puppy-proof every room, you should make sure there are nothing breakable or chewable at his eye level.
Remember, it's just like child-proofing, except his tastes are more exotic. Everything he notices will wind up in his mouth at some point. Don't leave shoes lying around and be compulsive about picking up coins, screws, bottle caps, etc. You will be amazed by the variety of things you wind up taking out of your puppy's mouth . Some dogs love to pick up pebbles outside and bring them in to chew. Sometimes you won't be sure if the sound from his cheeks was a pebble or his brain rattling around.
Decide before he arrives about your rules about dogs on furniture. Make sure that every family member and guest enforces the rules consistently. He can't be blamed for not learning rules which change from person to person. If you decide to allow the dog on furniture, you will find sturdy, earth toned, patterned fabrics stand up best.
There's no right or wrong about this issue (but it's hard to resist their pleas to cuddle in your lap when you're sitting on a chair or couch), just decide what makes you comfortable and be consistent. You need to make the same decision about your bed. the rules are yours to enforce -- dogs can be allowed on furniture, but not on the bed, or whatever combination you want. Just be consistent in your rules.
Stairs and pools pose major safety hazards. Puppies have no sense of their own capabilities and no fear of falling. They will step off a step and roll or tumble down the rest of the stairs or step into a pool that's too deep and take an unplanned swim. Your dog can permanently injure or kill himself this way.
To the extent possible, stairs should be blocked off until the puppy has learned to climb safely up and down the stairs under your supervision. Some people put gates or doors at the top of all stairways - either full doors or half doors - to prevent accidental falls. Bulldogs have heavier front ends than hindquarters. This can cause them to overbalance and fall (going down stairs or into a pool, for example) until they get a good sense of balance and how to move all their parts together. This takes learning and time. Be sure to supervise your puppy inside and outside to prevent accidents.
Bulldogs can swim. However, if they can't get out of a pool by themselves, they can easily drown. The same precautions need to be taken around pools for dogs as for young children. Secure gates and fences are critical. Many bulldogs love water. People put small kiddy wading pools in their yards in the summer to provide a place for the dogs to cool off and play.
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